Frequently Asked Questions

There are many things to consider when sizing wire: voltage coming out of the controller, the solenoid draw, how many valves you're trying to operate, quality of your wire splices, etc. For a rough rule of thumb, 18-gauge is good for 750 feet, if you are operating one valve at a time.

Filters can help extend the life of, and lower the maintenance on your sprinkler system. For drip systems, filters are a necessity to prevent emitters from plugging. Even if small sand particles pass through your system without clogging it, they still can cause wear on the equipment.

There are a number of things that affect transformer and wire sizing: the number of fixtures, length of wire needed, and the bulb wattage in each fixture. We can help you calculate which transformer and wire size would be best for you.

No! Any time a ceiling sprinkler or escutcheon is painted, the temperature required to activate the sprinkler is no longer accurate.

Yes, a backflow prevention device that has been approved bt the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) is required for all irrigation systems.

There are several types of glue, each with its own application:

  • 2711 gray glue is good for all classes and schedules of pipe up to 12"
  • 2705 clear glue is good for all classes and schedules up to 4"

Both 2711 and 2705 require the use of primer.

  • 2725 {wet'n dry} is used when conditions are very wet or a quick pressurization is required.

Your auto filter should only flush when the filter element is plugged. If it flushes continuously, the filter needs maintenance or repair.

All the products we carry are a commercial grade with manufacturers' warranties. PVC comes in several grades, and most of these products in the retail stores are made with the lesser grade material.

It's not recommended, because the watering requirements are very different for your drip system versus your sprinkler system.

No, a fire system is calculated for specific flow requirements, which would be altered if other functions came off the same lines. This would substantially decrease the effectiveness of the fire protection application.

A pressure change or surge in the line causes water hammer, generally when water is turned on or off. If you are having a problem with water hammer in your line, adding a short branch line with a garden hose may help.

The easiest solution is to lower the water pressure for your entire irrigation system. This doesn't really get rid of all of the water hammer, but it will sometimes reduce it to a level you can live with. The next step is to try a water hammer arrestor. Try putting it on a hose bib close to the point where the irrigation system connects to the house water. If you have a hose bib on the irrigation system mainline, that is an even better spot to place the arrestor.

PC drippers are mainly used on systems with a long run of drip tubing, in order to maximize the amount of drippers on a single drip line while maintaining an even flow rate from each dripper. They are also better suited for areas with elevation differences.

  • Presence of air in a pipeline can cause flow obstruction - up to a complete stoppage, at times. It can also cause water hammer or an inadequate supply of water.
  • An air vent should be placed directly after the pump and before the pump check valve.
  • On long runs, place an air vent at 550-900 yard intervals, as well as one on each end of the run.
  • Install vents at the inflow side of filter heads to prevent air from entering the filters.

         Additional recommended mounting locations include:

  • On top of the filters, to release air from within and to enable draining and backwashing.
  • At the outflow side, to release remaining air and to prevent vacuum conditions and suction of filter media out of the filter.

We carry a product that will help clean out plugged emitters and, if injected into your system regularly, will keep them flowing.

There's no fixed answer. Consider your budget, water quality, and availability of the filter and parts. Screen filters are generally the least expensive. If you have a city water supply with nothing more than a periodic grain of sand or flake of rust in it, a screen filter will be fine in most cases.

Disk filters are good at removing particulates, like sand, and organic matter. A disk filter consists of a stack of round disks. The face of each disk is covered with various sized small bumps, and each bump has a sharp point on the top of it, somewhat like a tiny pyramid. The bumps create tiny spaces between the discs when they're stacked together. The water is forced between the disks, and the particulates are filtered out because they won't fit through these gaps. The sharp points on the bumps snag the organics. For automatic cleaning of the filter, the disks separate from each other, freeing the debris, which flushes out through a flush outlet. With less expensive disk filters, you must remove the disks and hose them off.

Yes, we sell to and can offer expert advice to both the contractor and do-it yourselfer.

Try turning the valve on manually by turning the bleed screw or solenoid. If it still won't activate, make sure the main water supply is turned on.

It could be the lowest head on the lateral line. If so, all the water left over in the pipe after irrigation is draining through this sprinkler. Fix the problem with a check valve placed underneath the sprinkler.

We don’t do any in field work. We would recommend a licensed contractor to help you with troubleshooting.

There are a variety of moisture probes and sensors available, depending on your application.

You need to have 110v power available where you wish to install your main controller. From there you run a low voltage wire out to your individual valves. If 110v is not available, there are battery- operated valves that will do the job. If you have existing manual valves, you’ll need to either replace them or add an electric valve adapter.

Yes, we’ll come out to your project and use a GPS to get the exact measurements, then provide you with a detailed CAD design and list of materials.

You need to have 110v power available where you wish to install your main controller. From there you run a low voltage wire out to your individual valves. If 110v is not available, there are battery- operated valves that will do the job. If you have existing manual valves, you’ll need to either replace them or add an electric valve adapter.